Autococker® Tech Page

Troubleshooting

 

General Problems
Problem Possible Solutions
Marker will not fire after being left in the sun or other hot place with CO2 bottle attached. CO2 bottle pressure exceeds 1100 psi and won't allow exhaust valve to open.

 

Remove bottle from marker to allow excess CO2 to escape.

 

Remove marker and tank from sun and allow to cool.
Marker will not fire properly after removing and replacing the bolt. Bolt is installed upside down. Hole in bolt should be facing down. Remove bolt, rotate 180 degrees and reinstall.
Marker will not fire when trigger is pulled. Air source pressure low or tank is empty. Refill tank.

 

Ensure inline regulator is adjusted to correct operating pressure.

 

Timing may be off. Check timing. See "Timing"
Marker will not cock or cocks every other time or less. Pressure too low. Refill tank and/or adjust inline regulator pressure.

 

Front regulator pressure set too low.

 

Sear spring damaged or weak. Replace spring.

 

Hammer lug out of adjustment. See "Timing"

 

Velocity adjustment set too high.

 

Back block or cocking rod adjustment incorrect. See "Timing"
Marker is chopping paintballs in the breech. Ensure you are not "short-stroking (not pulling the trigger all the way back and not allowing it to return all the way forward)" the trigger.

 

Ensure bolt clears the breech. See "Timing"

 

3-way valve adjusted incorrectly. See "Timing"

 

Paintballs are brittle and/or swelled. Make sure the paintballs are not too big for the barrel.

 

Check loader and breech for foreign material.

 

Loader isn't feeding paintballs fast enough to keep up with rate of fire. Upgrade to faster loader.
Marker is breaking paintballs in the barrel. Paintballs may be too big for barrel. Check paint/barrel match.

 

Check ball detent for proper operation. May be double feeding.
Marker fires and back block comes back, but won't go completely forward and/or locks up halfway. O-ring may be sticking in 3-way. Remove 3-way shaft, inspect, replace o-rings, and/or lubricate.

 

Weak return spring in trigger. Replace spring.

 

Bent 3-way shaft or timing rod. Straighten or replace.

 

Paintball shell caught between bolt and marker body. Clean marker.

 

Ball detent screwed in too far and is interfering with bolt. Remove ball detent, apply permanent strength (red) Loc-Tite and reinstall. Ensure no Loc-Tite gets on the ball itself and that detent is threaded in only far enough so that threads of detent itself do not interfere with bolt. Allow to cure before use.
Bolt does not clear the feed neck when trigger is pulled. Ensure cocking rod is properly adjusted. See "Timing"

 

Check back block adjustment. See "Timing"

 

Front (low pressure) regulator pressure may be too low. Adjust as necessary.

 

IVG turned in too far, compressing hammer (main) spring and not allowing back block to fully retract. Increase inline regulator pressure and/or replace hammer (main) spring.
Marker cycles slowly. Air source pressure too low. Refill tank.

 

Inline regulator pressure too low. Adjust pressure.

 

3-way is not being opened far enough by trigger pull. Adjust timing rod. See "Timing"

 

Ram is leaking. Replace or rebuild ram.
Back block remains back when marker is pressurized and trigger is released. 3-way low pressure tubing is routed backwards. Swap fwd and rear barb tubing.
Trigger is sluggish and/or sticks. Ensure trigger shoe (if present) is not dragging on trigger frame. Adjust as necessary.

 

CO2 may have entered 3-way and expanded the o-rings. O-rings will return to normal size when they warm up.

 

Weak or damaged trigger return spring. Replace spring.

 

Front (low pressure) regulator pressure is too high. Adjust as necessary.

 

Timing may be off. Check timing. See "Timing"

 

 

Velocity Problems
Problem Possible Solutions
Low velocity Air source pressure too low. Refill tank.

 

Improper IVG adjustment. Adjust velocity.

 

Inline regulator pressure too low or too high. Adjust as necessary.

 

Hammer (main) spring is too weak. Replace spring.

 

Valve spring is too strong. Replace spring.

 

Bolt upside down. Rotate 180 degrees.

 

Valve installed backwards. Remove and reinstall with larger hole facing forward.

 

Valve jam nut is loose. The jam nut is not allowing the hammer to open the valve properly. This can also damage the internal threads. Tighten jam nut.
High velocity Improper IVG adjustment. Adjust velocity.

 

Inline regulator pressure too high. Adjust as necessary.

 

Hammer (main) spring is too strong. Replace spring.

 

Valve spring is too weak. Replace spring.
Velocity is inconsistent shot to shot. Cocking rod bent and/or dragging. Straighten or replace.

 

Exhaust valve cupped or spring is weak. Replace valve or spring.

 

Liquid CO2 is entering marker. Install anti-siphon tube in tank.

 

Tank regulator supplying inconsistent pressure to marker. Have regulator rebuilt or replace tank.

 

Paintballs rolling down barrel. Paintballs too small for barrel. Change paintballs or barrel.

 

Inline regulator is not sweetspotted. Sweetspot inline regulator.

 

Inline regulator seals damaged or dirty. Rebuild reg.

 

Timing may be off. Check timing. See "Timing"
Velocity starts low, then climbs. Replace or rebuild inline regulator.
Velocity too low when temperature is cold. Switch to nitrogen or compressed air. CO2 is unusable when it gets too cold.

 

 

Leaks
Problem Possible Solutions
Low pressure tubing blows off the barbs. Front (low pressure) regulator pressure is too high.
Leaking between tank pin valve and marker air source adapter (ASA) Bad tank pin valve o-ring. Replace o-ring.
Leaking between tank bottle neck and tank pin valve. Loose pin valve.WARNING! Do not try to remove tank from marker. Fire the marker and push the cocking rod forward to hold the valve open. Release all air pressure from tank. Once all pressure is removed from tank, unthread tank from marker and take to a certified airsmith for repair. DO NOT TRY TO REPAIR YOURSELF!
Low pressure tubing is leaking. Front (low pressure) regulator pressure may be too high. Adjust as necessary.

 

Replace faulty tubing.
3-way is leaking. Check 3-way for proper adjustment. See "Timing"

 

Ensure 3-way shaft or timing rod isn't bent. Straighten or replace.

 

O-rings worn or broken. Replace o-rings.

 

Front (low pressure) regulator pressure too low to seal 3-way. Adjust as necessary.

 

Check barbs. Replace or re-seal as necessary.
3-way valve leaks out the front when marker is not cycling. Check 3-way for proper adjustment. See "Timing"

 

Replace 3-way shaft forward o-ring.
3-way valve leaks out the back when marker is not cycling. Check 3-way for proper adjustment. See "Timing"

 

Replace or rebuild ram. Air is leaking past ram piston seal and is returning to 3-way.
Ram is leaking around pump arm shaft. Replace or rebuild ram.
Air leaks down barrel. Ensure marker is cocked.

 

Air source pressure may be too low to keep valve seated. Refill tank.

 

Valve spring may be too weak. Replace spring.

 

Inline regulator may be set too low to keep valve seated. Sweetspot regulator.

 

If valve was replaced recently, fire marker several times to "break in" valve.

 

Valve jam nut may be loose. Tighten jam nut.

 

Remove and replace exhaust valve.
Front block is leaking. Replace o-rings.