The Autococker® is a closed-bolt auto-cocking marker. It is complex in design and operation with many mechanical components. The marker must be "timed" to operate properly (Which is covered here). It is for this reason that many new paintballers stray away from Autocockers® because they appear to be too complex and high maintenance.

The operation begins with cocking the marker. Pulling the back block pulls the bolt and hammer to the rear. A paintball can now enter the breech and the hammer lug is now held by the sear. Now an air source can be attached to the marker causing air to flow through the inline regulator to the main bodies air chamber. At this point the exhaust valve is being held closed by the valve spring so no air can enter the bolt. The air in the air chamber can enter the front regulator though, through the front block, and is reduced in pressure and sent to the 3-way. With the trigger in it's released position, the 3-way shaft is held forward allowing air received from the front regulator to flow through the 3-way to the rear barb of the ram by way of low pressure tubing. This causes the ram shaft to slide forward pulling the back block and bolt to their closed position. Note: The cocking rod will remain pulled to the rear because it is threaded into the hammer which is being held by the sear. Now the marker is ready to begin it's normal firing sequence. The sequence will now be prompted by the pulling of the trigger.

The trigger serves two purposes. It releases the hammer to begin the firing sequence during the first part of the trigger pull and then starts the re-cocking sequence during the latter part of the trigger pull. Note: Depending on what style trigger is installed, there will either be a round hole or an oval hole where the timing rod connects to the trigger. Oval holes in the trigger allow for more leeway in the timing while round holes require closer timing.

During the first part of the trigger pull, the trigger lowers the sear and releases the hammer. The hammer is accelerated forward by the hammer (main) spring and opens the exhaust valve. The pressure from the air chamber now enters the bolt through the valve opening and accelerates the paintball out of the barrel and to it's target.

During the latter part of the trigger pull, the trigger pulls the timing rod to the rear. This, in turn, pulls the 3-way shaft to the rear causing air supplied to the 3-way, from the front regulator, to now be directed out of the rear barb of the 3-way. The air leaves the rear barb of the 3-way and travels via low pressure tubing to the front barb of the ram. The air entering the front barb of the ram causes the ram shaft to push the pump arm to the rear. The pump arm, being threaded into the back block, then re-cocks the hammer and pulls the bolt to the rear allowing another paintball to enter the breech.

When the trigger is released, springs in the trigger frame return the sear and trigger to their normal positions. As the trigger is pushed forward returning to it's normal position, it, in turn, pushes the timing rod and 3-way shaft back to their forward position allowing air to leave the front barb of the 3-way and enter the rear barb of the ram. Now the ram returns the back block and bolt to their closed position completing one firing and re-cocking cycle. This cycle occurs every time the trigger is pulled.

Now that you have read this and watched the animation above, you should have a fair understanding of the basics of operation of a Cocker®. And now you are beginning to realize why it is so important to have your Cocker® timed right. You can't fire a paintball if the marker is trying to re-cock itself at the same time.

Here are a few statements to clear some questions that may have come up.

1.) In the animation above, one end of the low pressure tubing coming from the center barb on the 3-way does not seem to go to any component. That end of the tubing would attach to the barb on the front regulator, which is not shown in the animation. Also the color blue in the animation depicts the movement of air pressure through the marker.

2.) The description above refers to a properly timed stock mechanical WGP Autococker® with a slide trigger frame. Hinge trigger frames and some aftermarket 3-ways require the front and rear 3-way hoses to be reversed.

3.) Electronic Cockers® operate in the same manner but they have a solenoid that replaces the 3-way and timing rod.

4.) If you have any questions about the components of an Autococker® then visit our Description of Components page here.